Kang Yatze or Kang Yatse (elevation 6,496 metres (21,312 ft)) is a mountain located at the end of the Markha Valley in the Himalayas in Ladakh. It is located in the Hemis National Park, not long away from the capital Leh.
The mountain has two summits. The true eastern summit is higher at 6,400 m but requires an extremely technical traverse across a knife-edge ridge for the mountaineers wishing to conquer it. The lower western peak (Kang Yatze II) is easier and more frequently climbed, although it is lower at about 6270m.
Kang Yatze II
The lower peak is mainly done from mid-June till September end. There are two approach routes to this peak. One is from Chilling and trekking through the Markha Valley, passing the villages of Skyu, Markha and Hankar. There is another approach that starts from the village of Shang-Sumdo and steeply climbs up the Markha Gorge passing by the campsite of Chyuskirmo, Lartsa and then climbing the Gongmaru La(Pass), a 5130 meter high pass to reach Nimaling. This peak is easier compared to the main lower western peak and does not require any technical mountaineering skills. From the very top, distant peaks of East Karakoram ranges are visible on a clear day.
Kang Yatze I
Kang Yatze I or the Eastern summit requires an intermediate Camp to be set up. The climb to Camp 1 is a short one but over a steep scree and cliffs zone. There is an alternative route following the Glacier where Camp 1 can be set as well. From Camp 1, the climb gets technical. The last 500 meters of the peak is very steep and mandatory fixed ropes.